While making shoe pattern various shoe parts are measured. how is it done ?

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Once mean forme of shoe last has been prepared we have to mark  the locations of the individual parts of the shoe pattern; i.e. the toe cap, vamp, quarters, tongue, & back strip. Refer to the diagram below (fig. 35) for all measurements in this section:

Screen Shot 2016-02-16 at 10.28.15 AM

Vamp:

  • F = 1/2″ below E
  • Draw a straight line connecting F and V
  • <FVJ is 90°
  • VO = 1/3 VJ + 1/16″
  • OM = 1″ (parallel to line EV)
  • Connect points V & M and extend the line to the edge of the standard, which indicates point X.

Now design the vamp curve from V’ (1/8″ above V) through M to X as shown.

Add an extra 3/16″ along the vamp curve for folding (beading) if desired. This is the process of skiving down & folding over the edges of each piece before assembling your shoe so that no raw edges will be exposed in the final product.

Toe Cap:

  • EG = 1/2″
  • VP = 1/3 VG
  • Starting at point P, the toe cap follows the curve of a circle with a 12″ radius (whose center point would be in a straight line with PE)

Tor Cap Radius

If you’re not sure how to make an arc with a 12″ radius, follow these instructions: Tie a piece of string to a pencil as close to the tip as you can. Mark a point on the string 12″ from the pencil. Place the tip of the pencil on point P and, holding the string at the 12″ mark, pull it taught and align it with line PE, then press it to the table with your thumb. Keeping the string taught, move the pencil across the standard to form the toe cap line. (Add 3/16″ along the curved edge for beading if desired.)

 

Quarter:

The quarter is already formed. The only modification that you should make to your pattern is to extend it by 3/8″ along the vamp line so that the pieces can overlap when you assemble them later. (Add 3/16″ along the facings and throat for beading if desired.)

Back Strip:

Fold a piece of paper in half and cut the strip to the following measurements:

  • Length = Back of quarter + 3/8″
  • Width (from the fold) =
    • 3/8″ at the top
    • 5/16″ at the middle
    • 5/8″ at the bottom

Then cut out and unfold.

Tongue:

  • Length = Same as line VT (1/4 SL + 1/4″)
  • Width (from the fold) =
    • 1   1/8″ at the top
    • 3/4″ at the bottom

Then cut out and unfold.

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answered May 7 by SHOE MAG
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