What is Stitch Down Construction ?

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Stitchdown: This is the only one construction where the lasting allowance is turned outwards. The insole is larger than the last. The upper outside curved edge is cement lasted to the  insole. In some cases  a  thin micro cellular mid sole is also temporarily cemented with the insole. The sole itself  is also cemented and all the elements are bound together by stitching. The excess material from the side to be cut before trimming.
 

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STITCHDOWN CONSTRUCTION

This process may or may not  have the  welt. Single or double sole can be used for any desired thickness.
Identifying characteristics:

No stitching or metal parts are visible inside the shoe. On examination of the shoe it is noticeable that where the upper meets the insole, the edge of the upper turned outside and is inline  the edge of the insole. Advantage of this type of construction is that the shoes are strong and flexible.

Goodyear welt:This is an indirect method of attachment of sole, upper and welt. One of the major characteristics of this process is the use of an insole with an upstanding wall or rib. First the rib of the insole, the upper and the welt are sewn together. Then the sole and the welt are stitched together. The process is mainly used for men’s dress shoes and in industrial footwear.
 

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Advantages:

The welt being attached to the insole and the sole makes the shoe relatively water repellent.

It is very flexible light and comfortable.

Easy to repair.

It is a strong construction and has the ability to keep its shape under heavy wear.

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Goodyear Welt Process
 


Identifying characteristics:

Inside the shoe is free from stitches, tacks or staples except for the small portion of the heel seat.  It shows the stitches among the upper, welt and insole 

SOURCE

All About Shoe Making 

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answered Apr 27, 2020 by SHOE MAG
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